Author / Basil @ Editorial

by Basil @ Editorial

There’s an app for that…

I’ve spent enough time sifting through climbing and rigging related apps to recognize that most are poor shortcuts to obstacles and not all that useful. Good apps support learning, instruction and/or the actualization of work while being easy to use. They supplement practical knowledge and experience rather than try to replace it. Here’s a short list of good apps suggested for radicals in the vertical world. Get creative and remember to lanyard your phone when working at height.

KNOTS 3D provides a multi-dimensional approach to knot tying with a catalog of over 120 knots.  Available on a free website catalog or for $2 on iOS and Android.

RIGRITE is an app that calculates vector forces common in rigging. Any unit can be selected and applied to multi-point anchors, redirects/directionals, tripods, highlines , slope lower/raise, tension and compression. Available for $3 on iOS and Android.

EASY ANGLE is a simple tool for measuring angles using photographs. Available on iOS for $1.

CMC RESCUE FIELD GUIDE compiles CMC’s Rope Rescue Field Guide and Confined Space Entry and Rescue Guide into a full-featured app that includes reference charts, diagrams, and how-to information. You can even customize it with your own notes, photos, and documents for reference in the field. Available for free on iOS and Android.

THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S EPHEMERIS (TPE) is a tool to help you plan outdoor photography in natural light. It’s a map-centric sun and moon calculator that lets you see how the light will fall on land or buildings (day or night) for any location on earth.  This makes it extremely useful for planning with consideration to photo ops, field work, and deployment. Available on a free desktop web app (browser-based) or on iOS and Android for $8.99.

5-0 RADIO POLICE SCANNER is a mobile scanner that allows you to tap into a large collection of live police, firefighter, aircraft, railroad, marine, emergency, and ham radio frequencies. Stay ahead of important news, events, emergency responders and happenings in your town/area.  Available for free on iOS.

by Basil @ Editorial

The Magnet Anchor

I’m an advocate of creative approaches to ropes and rigging — both in training and in the field. These are the spaces that turn gears and illuminate light bulbs. These are the spaces where we evolve as vertical practitioners.

This little experimagnetment all started with the simple pull of a magnet fixed to a refrigerator. The magnet popped off in my hand. “That must be around 5lbs of force,” I thought.  I just wrapped up a section on load sharing anchors while leading a climb training for Greenpeace USA in the Summer of 2014 and curiosity got the best of me.  Could I build an anchor out of these simple magnets?  How many would it take?  And so it began.

I weigh around 160lbs. Divide that by 5lbs (my estimate of how much force it took to pull the magnet off the fridge) and I was left with 32 — the minimum number of magnets needed to hold my weight.  This is assuming that my estimate was accurate, that I would be able to equalize all the magnets ‘perfectly’ and that additional forces don’t exist when getting onto or suspended from an anchor.  Knowing better I decided to double the amount but after searching the warehouse for every magnet available I was left with 51 magnets so 51 magnets it was.

My friend and fellow rope nerd, Van and I quickly got to work tying loops made from random bits of 2-4mm accessory cord to the plastic knobs on each magnet. These would become the individual anchor points for each of the 51 magnets.

magnetanchor-close

photo by Basil Tsimoyianis

We divided these into clusters that we painstakingly equalized into seven load sharing anchors.  These seven anchors were then brought together and equalized to create a single master point.

photo by Basil Tsimoyianis

photo by Basil Tsimoyianis

The end result was one master point made from eight equalized anchors whose loads were shared across 51 individual anchor points – in this case magnets.

photo by Basil Tsimoyianis

Untethered magnets will fall if they fail so if using this for training purposes don’t make the same mistakes pictured here – wear a helmet, have a separate belay line, and place a crash pad underneath you. Photo by Basil Tsimoyianis

The anchor was weight tested by people of varying sizes/weights and some even chose to bounce test it. Minimum breaking strength was never determined but I think it’s wise to call this one body weight only.

I’ll be the first to admit that this magnet anchor is not the most practical when it comes to field use but it’s an excellent training tool that highlights the concept of load sharing anchors and importance of equalization.

WARNING:  Magnets are not reliable anchors. Using a magnet or magnets as life support can and will likely kill you.  Untethered magnets will fall if they fail so if using this for training purposes don’t make the same mistakes pictured here – wear a helmet, have a separate belay line, and place a crash pad underneath you. Heck, grab yourself an umbrella while you’re at it.  Have fun but be careful.
by Basil @ Editorial

Radical Soles

ropeguerrilla-boots

Stone mountain tops

Used, worn, passed on

Spattered paint

 

Soles

Artifacts of actions past

Traversing society

 

Actions where boots (pictured above) have been worn:  Mount Rushmore. Keystone, S.D. July 8, 2009.  Fisk coal-fired power station. Chicago, IL. May 24, 2011.  Agios Dimitrios lignite power station. Kozáni, Greece. December 9, 2015.
by Basil @ Editorial

Vertical Tools of Protest

Climbing, ropes, and rigging can be used to draw attention to an issue, communicate a message, and/or directly interfere or stop an activity from happening — events often referred to as actions.  All climb actions will fall under one or more of the following categories.

noun_camera-Alexander Blagochevsky

Photo-ops: Used to boldly articulate a demand, to rebrand a target, or to provide a message frame or larger-than-life caption for an action. Photo ops are reliant on third party media to carry and spread a message/image.

noun_megaphone-Gardenia FairDirect communications: Speak directly to the target. They take place at the location of a target audience (CEO, shareholders, etc.) and are not reliant on media.

created by Mete EraydınOccupations: Used to hold space, to pressure a target, to reclaim property, or to defend against development. Occupations at height can take a myriad of forms and are often used to heighten a message or to stop something directly.

noun_occupy-Luis PradoBlockades: Used to physically shut down something, to protect something, or to make a symbolic statement. Aerial blockades can be used as a form of direct action or as a means to support another activity.

Tools and Tactics

Knowing the category/objective behind an action is essential when thinking thru tools and tactics.  They range from the very specialized to the multi-purpose and there’s a lot to be considered. Below are some examples of tools and tactics used by radicals in the vertical world – keep an eye out for future articles exploring these and others further.

Reclamation

Removing, covering, or changing something as a form of resistance, expression, and/or direct action.  Flag poles can present strong opportunities for this.

Bree Newsome takes down the confederate flag. Photo: Adam Anderson/Reuters Media Express

“You come against me with hatred, repression, and violence. I come against you in the name of God. This flag comes down today.” – Bree Newsome before taking down the confederate flag from the South Carolina state house grounds on June 27, 2015. The flag no longer flies. Photo: Adam Anderson/Reuters Media Express

Banners

Most often made of ripstop or similar materials — net banners are also used in cases where wind is of high concern. Banners are used to boldy articulate a demand or message. They can be extremely large requiring multiple people or small enough to be handheld by a single climber.

Three protesters climb the Golden Gate Bridge cables and unfurl a banner reading, "One World One Dream, Free Tibet", in protest of the Olympic Torch coming to San Francisco, CA on April 7, 2008. Photo: Jim Herd/SFCitizen

Three protesters with Students for a Free Tibet climb the Golden Gate Bridge cables and unfurl a banner reading, “One World One Dream, Free Tibet”, in protest of the Olympic Torch coming to San Francisco, CA on April 7, 2008. Photo: Jim Herd/SFCitizen

Painting

Painting, like banners, can boldy articulate a demand or message.  It can be used to tag/rebrand a target and has some staying power after things are cleared out.

Greenpeace paint "Go Solar" onto the cooling tower of the lignite fueled Agios Dimitrios Power Station in Kozani, Greece on December 9, 2015. Photo: Takis Grigoriou

Greenpeace paint “Go Solar” onto the cooling tower of the lignite fueled Agios Dimitrios Power Station in Kozani, Greece on December 9, 2015. Photo: Takis Grigoriou

Platforms

A platform is a strong sturdy frame, usually wood, designed to be suspended from height. They’re very rigid and can be fairly comfortable for extended periods of time. Platforms are commonly noted for their use in tree sits and can range from the very simple to complex.

The impressive platform built for the Jerry Treesit in Freshwater, CA as see on August 12, 2004. Photo: Aaron Maret.

The impressive platform built for the Jerry treesit as seen on August 12, 2004 in Freshwater, CA. Photo: Aaron Maret

Portaledges

A portaledge is a packable and deployable fabric-covered platform surrounded by a metal frame that hangs from a single point and has adjustable suspension straps. A separate cover, called a stormfly, covers the entire system in the event of bad weather — think hanging tent. Their portability make them great for urban, industrial, or even marine based actions.

Activists with Greenpeace occupy a portaledge hanging from the side of Gazproms Arctic oil platform, Prirazlomnaya, off the North-eastern coast of Russia in the Pechora Sea on August 24, 2012. Photo: Denis Sinyakov/Greenpeace

Activists with Greenpeace occupy a portaledge hanging from the side of Gazproms Arctic oil platform, Prirazlomnaya, off the North-eastern coast of Russia in the Pechora Sea on August 24, 2012. Photo: Denis Sinyakov/Greenpeace

Nets

Nets are a packable and deployable alternative to a portaledge that must be stretched and anchored between multiple rigging points. The result is a greater footprint with the capacity to take up a larger amount of space and hold more people.

Greenpeace activists occupy a net rigged to the conveyor of a coal-fired power plant in Brindisi, southern Italy on July 8, 2009, making it inoperable. Dozens of activists from 18 countries simultaneously occupied four coal-fired power plants across Italy calling on leaders at the G8 summit to take the lead in fighting climate change. Photo: Max Frigione/Associated Press

Greenpeace activists occupy a net rigged to the conveyor of a coal-fired power plant in Brindisi, southern Italy on July 8, 2009, making it inoperable. Dozens of activists from 18 countries simultaneously occupied four coal-fired power plants across Italy calling on leaders at the G8 summit to take the lead in fighting climate change. Photo: Max Frigione/Associated Press

Tripods, bipods, monopods

Made of wood or metal a tripod is a three legged structure that is occupied by a person on top — safely out of reach. They can vary in height and are great for blocking vehicle traffic, entrances, or intersections. They can also be used to display a banner and/or occupy space. Bipods (two legs) and monopods (single leg) serve a similar purpose but are more difficult for authorities to take down — they’re also more difficult to set-up. Train and take caution!

Climbers practice with a variety of pod formations during an Earth First! Climbers Guild camp outside of Eugene, OR. Photo: Basil Tsimoyianis

Climbers practice with a variety of pod formations during an Earth First! Climbers Guild camp outside of Eugene, OR in July of 2012. Photo: Basil Tsimoyianis

Aerial Encampments

A combination of methods used to occupy space suspended from or in the path of a target or something of interest. Highlines and/or traverse lines are often used as a means of transit within encampments and can be rigged to make them more difficult to remove.

Activists with the Tar Sands Blockade occupy platforms and scaffold constructed in the path of TransCanada’s planned Keystone XL pipeline construction. September 2012. Photo: Laura Borealis

Activists with the Tar Sands Blockade occupy platforms and scaffold bordering the tree camp they’ve woven in the path of TransCanada’s planned Keystone XL pipeline construction on September 26, 2012. Photo: Laura Borealis

Suspended Body Blockades

Placing or suspending a climber in a position that physically shuts down something, blocks something, or protects something — this may include other climbers.

Climbers suspend themselves under the St. Johns Bridge in Portland, OR and join kayaktivists in an effort to block the Shell leased icebreaker, MSV Fennica from meeting with the rest of Shell’s Arctic drilling fleet on July 29, 2015. Photo: Tim Aubry/Greenpeace

Climbers suspend themselves under the St. Johns Bridge in Portland, OR and join kayaktivists on July 29, 2015 in an effort to block the Shell leased icebreaker, MSV Fennica from meeting with the rest of Shell’s Arctic drilling fleet in Alaska. Photo: Tim Aubry/Greenpeace

Pods

A pod is a hard shell enclosed capsule designed to keep a small team of activists warm and dry in the face of extreme weather and violent opposition like water cannons and projectiles during an action. Sleeping accommodations, communications equipment, food supplies and water can all fit into a pod — making it possible for activists to stay in place for weeks at a time. The use of pods in the vertical environment is most associated with Greenpeace who have regularly used them in marine environments when taking residence on ships and oil rigs.

A Greenpeace activist stands on top of an Arctic Survival Pod secured to the Leiv Eiriksson oil rig on May 29, 2011 during an attempt to interfere with Cairn Energy’s Arctic drilling schedule. A Danish navy ship can also be seen in the background. Photo: Greenpeace

RG-jolly-roger-5x7

Have something to add to the vertical toolbox?  Send a photo and caption with proper credit, location, and date to contribute@ropeguerrilla.org.

Icons via the nounproject.com, created in order of appearance by Alexander Blagochevsky, Gardenia Fair, Mete Eraydın, and Luis Prado.
by Basil @ Editorial

Stuck Carabiners

contributed by Harmony Lambert

We’ve all been there: you’re climbing and go to unlock a carabiner, only to find it stuck closed. It’s frustrating and can lead to a dangerous situation. Here, we’ll explore ways to deal with a locked carabiner that won’t budge.

Why it happens

This common problem is usually the result of screwing down your carabiner while you already have weight in it.

A stuck carabiner is usually the result of screwing the gate closed while you already have some weight in it — carabiners flex and stretch slightly when under tension.

Once you lock it down and unweight it, this small shift of weight jams the gate even more shut (dramatized in this image), resulting in a stuck carabiner.

When unweighted the carabiner returns to its resting state. This small change in shape jams the gate even more resulting in a stuck carabiner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Deal

Put weight into it

The easiest way to unlock most stuck carabiners is by trying to unscrew the gate while putting weight into it. Sometimes you can simply pull the carabiner apart with your hands (applying force in line with the spine) while another person tries unscrewing it. Other times you’ll need to sit into it—possibly even bounce on it—while working the gate.

Use some cord

If weighing it doesn’t work, you can get a better grip by clove hitching some spare cord (accessory line, shoelace, etc.) onto the stuck gate. Pull in the direction you’re trying to unlock while lifting the gates sleeve. The more textured the gate, the easier this will work. The hitch may slip a few times, but with enough friction, it will eventually grip.

You can also use a sling or tied loop to fix a friction hitch onto the gate.  Snug it up tight and turn it in the direction needed to unlock the gate — make sure to tie the hitch in the correct orientation.

Hit it

If troubleshooting up to this point hasn’t worked, a last ditch effort is to hit the gate. It’s recommended to try to hit the gate in the direction you want it to move, but that can sometimes be hard. Often, just wailing on it in any way will do the trick.

I’ve seen this work before, and it’s pretty surprising how much force it can take to get the screw unlocked. While setting up scaffolding at a climb training camp a carabiner on a safety lanyard became stuck and nothing was working to get it open. “Just hit it,” my friend shouted. The climber above tapped the gate against some metal but it didn’t budge. “Really hit it. Like, don’t hold back. Just nail it.” A couple solid hits against metal frame of the scaffolding and it finally unlocked.

This method has been met with concern about hairline fractures compromising climbing equipment. Richard Delaney of RopeLab summarizes his lab test (Dropped Carabiners) thusly:

“From these tests, the lack of manufacturers related recommendations, and the lack of any credible account of a carabiner having ever broken in normal use, I am satisfied that the often quoted ‘dropped carabiner causing micro-fractures’ statement appears to be unfounded. I feel confident to say that, regardless of history, a carabiner which passes a rigorous inspection undertaken by a ‘competent person’ should be considered fine for normal use.” — RopeLab

Take your time researching hairline fractures, then deciding for yourself exactly what kind of protocol you want to take for dropped carabiners and other hard PPE that has generally taken a beating.

Screw Links

A problem I’ve run into a handful of times is a screw link jamming up and being hard to open. A spare makes for a great wrench — simply open the link and match it to the gate you’re trying to unlock. It’s one of those beautifully simple solutions you stumble upon once in awhile.

Prevention

As with most problems that come up in life, the best remedy is preventing them from happening in the first place. In the case of stuck carabiners, this can usually be done pretty easily. Simply screw it down (finger tight) when unweighted. If you have to lock a weighted carabiner, then it’s especially important to not over tighten.

Tightening screw lock carabiners as much as you can may feel good and more secure but it’s unnecessary. You only need to tighten it enough to keep the gate locked; the strength of the carabiner will remain the same here as when the screw lock is tightened down all the way.